Paris..C'est bon!

Another wonderful week in Paris! The only complaint I have this week is that the cold of Fall officially began on Friday. Rain, low temperatures, and tons of cold weather clothes have become prevalent in the streets of Paris. As much as I dislike this kind of weather (granted I know it will only worsen), being here makes it all worth while!

I have to admit, I became a bit lazy this week with picture taking and took very minimal pictures, relying on my friends mostly this week to capture great shots. I have asked them to email me some of these photos and I will put them up when I get a chance. Tuesday was an exceedingly warm day and of my friends really wanted to go to the top of Notre Dame after school, so that we could get a clear view of the city. I had planned on lounging in the Tuileries all afternoon but decided to go with him and one of my other friends (he agreed to take photos and carry my heavy bag to the top, so I was easily convinced). Even though I had wanted to climb up on a day when it was so hot and unpleasant I am so grateful for my friends convincing me to go on this day. Even though the climb to the top was up a very narrow staircase, we got to the top and had the most magnificent view of Sacre Cour, the Eiffel Tower, and pretty much the entire city, for miles. It was such a perfect clear day and it was so much fun to be inside the Church. The gargoyles were even more dramatic up close and we took pictures with the giant Quasimoto bell. It was a great experience and I am so happy I went on the one of the last sunny days here!

Wednesday after my classes my friends I went to my home away from home, the Tuileries. It was the most gorgeous day! People were sunbathing, playing games, having picnics, strumming on guitars, playing futbol, or just reading. We were warned that this was to be one of the last days of summer so we thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon of lounging. There was another metro strike beginning at 7 that night, so my friend who lives near me in the Marais asked if I wanted to avoid the complicated trains for the day and instead we walked home. It was the most beautiful evening. Perfect 80 degree weather as we strolled down the Seine enjoying the last bit of the evening before dusk fell. We meandered a bit on our walk home and found a street where they filmed recent episodes of "Gossip Girl" (more on that later in the blog) and stumbled upon a beautiful Church called Saint Gervais. I felt like we were in the Da Vinci Code as we walked in. There was incense burning in front of rows of cloaked figures singing for Mass in Latin. We took seats on the side of the Church and sat for a bit of Mass. The Church itself is magnificent. I'll have to post pictures to convey the dramatic arches and stone work inside. After staying for a bit we left and passed a Mexican food restaurant that brought a bit of nostalgia to Juliette and me. A warm evening, with guacamole, margaritas, and Mexican music playing amidst jovial dinner goers made us miss California...just a bit! ;)

Thursday began another strike for workers in Paris, which included the metro. However, "strike" in Paris practically translates to party. After class we decided to go on a walk and the Bastille was flooded with barbecues, balloons, drinks, flags, and people dancing. We had fun there for a while then walked to Sainte Chapelle "a gem of High Gothic architecture", a chapel known for its magnificent stained glass windows. My friends took plenty of pictures so again I will post them when I get a chance. There are whispers that a fragment of the Holy Cross and the Crown of Thorns were kept in the Church before the Revolution. The church itself has undergone quite a bit of renovation throughout its years of existence. This day was also unique in that our school had warned us of a high terror alert in France as of late and the Gendiarme patrolled the streets heavily all day particularly when we were at Sainte Chapelle because of its proximity to Palais du Justice.

Friday we were caught in a rain storm near the Lourve and ended up spending the afternoon in a cozy cafe in the Marais. That night we went to a concert in Villette. One of my friends really likes these artists that perform dubstep and drum and bass music and was so excited they were performing this night. I like it as well, but she is the true fan so it was fun to go to a new kind of concert. It was held in Cabaret Sauvage which looks like the inside of a circus tent. It was another great night in Paris.

Saturday was Paris' annual "Techno Parade". Basically it is like Love Fest in San Francisco, only better! 500,000 people march through the streets of Paris following floats playing electronic music. We had such a good time dancing and marching from Fontaine Saint Michel all the way down Saint Germain to the Bastille. Never have I ever been to a concert while crossing the Seine past Notre Dame. We went with some of French friends as well, which was great because we obviously enjoy their company but were also grateful for their advice. They told us areas to avoid and guided us away from the end of parade which ended at the Bastille. They told us this was the only dangerous part of the parade so we left and went around the crowds before chaos ensued and the Gendiarme had to step in. Lucky us, we only got to deal with the fun, jovial part of the parade. It was such a fun day!

Today was a lazy, rainy Sunday spent in a cafe doing homework and preparing for school work this week. Cafe culture is truly one of my favorite parts of Paris. It is beyond relaxing to leisurely enjoy a meal or a cafe while chatting and laughing with friends. Its encouraged to stay for hours and just enjoy your day. School work is getting interesting as well. I am continuing to increase my French language skills, have been watching some great films for my cinema class, and have really been enjoying my media class where one of my first assignments is to write an essay on Jean Sarkozy, the president's son.

I have started a list in my head of French characteristics that I believe America should adopt: Cafe Culture, the effortless style the men, women, and children have, the nightlife, simple laws that everyone seems to have no trouble obeying, the convenience of a metro (i know they have these in big cities but LA needs one), and many others. The list continues to grow. As much as I love America and California in particular, I wish we could emulate the French a bit more.

Overall things have been going so well here. I have yet to watch any television either on a TV set or on the internet and I honestly keep myself so busy I do not even notice. I use my French phone so much less than I used my American one. I truly feel like I am living and feel more like a kid in the sense that I am not as reliant on technology here. I haven't really missed it much yet and I hope it continues that way. I am also pleased that I am a regular now at the Boulangerie out the door from my room. The lady knows what I want before I go to order (maybe this isn't best thing but at least I feel like a Parisian) and the Boulangerie is a famous one at that! Apparently it wins all kinds of awards each year and is said to be one of the best in the city. They also filmed Gossip Girl here this season, which I have not seen, but have heard. The man who works at the Corner store I go to, showed me videos of it on his iphone and was proud he was in one of the episodes. I feel like I have a little neighborhood with store owners who know me now and its a great feeling of belonging.

I've heard California is having some beautiful sunny weather right now and I hope everyone is getting a chance to enjoy it! I miss you all and hope everyone is in good spirits!

Bises! xx

A month in Paris

Painting inside of Palais Luxembourg

View of Luxembourg Gardens

Ceiling inside of Palais de Luxembourg

Ceiling Inside of Palais de Luxembourg

Fountain in Luexmbourg Gardens

French Parliament

Painted ceiling in National Assembly

Orchestra inside of National Assembly

National Assembly

Les Refuges

Les Refuges in Montmarte

This week was very interesting for me. I spent the end of last weekend and most of the week with a cold but drank lots of tea and tried to catch up on sleep and felt much better thankfully! This weekend was probably my favorite that I have had thus far in Paris. Not only did we have a wonderful birthday weekend for one of my good friends here named Juliette, but it was a unique weekend in Paris as many monuments were open to the public. This happens very rarely and they are called special heritage days. The lines are a bit lengthy so we only limited ourselves to two, but it was a treat to go inside some of these buildings.

We do not have classes on Fridays and my last class on Thursday ends at 10:30 in the morning, giving me a very long enjoyable weekend each week. My days are fairly busy Monday through Thursday, but having such a long weekend, is definitely a reward for working hard in classes all week. I am also happy to report that I got an A on my final for our two week practicum last week, which I found out about this week. Although it is just one test, it has motivated me to keep working hard on my French language skills.

A Few Highlights from the weekend: Since my weekend begins on Thursday, two of my friends and I went to a concert at a club inside the Moulin Rouge. As most everyone knows, going to concerts has always been one of my favorite things to do, as music has been a real passion of mine for as long as I can remember. Having said this I have been to many concerts and music festivals and the one on Thursday was one of my absolute favorites! There were tons of DJ's with the headliners being Steve Aoki (from Santa Barbara ironically), A-Trak, and the Toxic Avenger. I had the most amazing time and I think it has been my favorite night in Paris thus far.

Friday evening, we began the night by going to a well known Fondue restaurant in Montmarte called Les Refuges, for my friend Juliette's birthday. I pictured the restaurant to be a quaint, little French restaurant nestled in the charming cobble stone streets lit with tons of candles. Instead, this place was very entertaining and a true dining experience. There is no menu, the waiters were little brash, and everyone at the restaurant sits at long tables together. You are served a large boiling pot of cheese and a dish of meat with an assortment of sauces and tons of goodies to dip. You are also given wine with your meal served out of baby bottles. The walls are covered in signatures and other decorative graffiti-esque art. There is a general jovial atmosphere and you make friends with other people sitting next to you quite easily. Not only was it delicious, but he had so much and will definitely probably go back before the term's end.

This weekend was a special one in Paris as many monuments were open to the public. On Saturday we visited the National Assembly building. This was really special to see and the building was magnificent. We went into the room where the French parliament meets and saw all the buttons for voting. It was very fun to be able to go into. As usual, the architecture and interior of the building was beautiful Much of the painting in the building was done by French artist Eugene Delacroix. My friends and I spent the rest of the day strolling through the streets of Paris and wound up at the Eiffel Tower. Although it is an incredibly touristy area, it still amazes me that I can spend any day I want gazing at on of the most important monuments in the world. (There was also a bomb scare earlier in the week there, but it was a false alarm!) Later in the evening, we decided to get dressed up as the second part of friend's birthday and go to Buddah Bar, a very elegant lounge right next to Hotel de Crillon. We nearly had to pinch ourselves as we got off the metro beforehand. In the near distance we could see the Eiffel Tower sparkling, a large fountain dramatically displaying its water show, all while standing in the beautiful 8th Arrondisement. Juliette said that it was her favorite birthday yet and said her gift from Paris was seeing the Tower sparkle unexpectedly as soon as we exited the metro.

Today, we went the Luxembourg Gardens and then to Palais de Luxembourg, the seat of the French senate, to see another building not normally open to the public. The palace was extravagant, grandiose, and everything a palace should be in terms of luxury. I learned which originally a palace and living quarters for the mother of Louis the X111 of France. It was also used during the German occupation as luxurious apartments and was spared from destruction thankfully during WWII. It was very striking and the art work was extraordinary.

Overall, it was a wonderful weekend and everyday I am here I realize how in love with the city I am. My friends and I are already thinking of ways to stay in Paris forever. Before leaving I wondered if packing for Europe for four months, having never been, and going to a place where I didn't speak the language was too ridiculous of an idea. However, I can already say that I believe this is one of the best decisions I've ever made in my life. It's safe to say I have already been truly impacted by it and many ways and feel so lucky to have three more months left. I have met so many amazing people here, most who ask, when they learn I am from California, are you from LA or San Francisco? I think its funny, but honestly the French people are probably more geographically knowledgeable than I am. My friends and I really can't believe what we get to do on a weekend. At school or home, weekends are usually limited to hanging out with friends, homework, this and that. Here we are still in awe that we text each other saying, meet me at Fontaine Saint Michel and we'll go to Notre Dame from there. It is so surreal and I am loving every moment of it!

Hope this message finds you all healthy and happy! Bises! xx

The End of Summer

Summer is nearly over in Paris and the air has grown cooler, the rain has become more frequent, and the leaves have just begun to change color. I have honestly always preferred the warmer Spring and Summer months and really dislike the cold, but this year, I am really excited to see the change of a season, especially in Paris. Nearly all of the store keepers have re-opened their shops after August which is a time when most go away for a Summer holiday. The city is full of people and school has resumed in and officially been in session for most people here for the past two weeks. Even though September is not the beginning of a new year, I have always associated it with a fresh start full of new people, places, and experiences.

This week was an intensive week of French classes. I knew hardly a word of French before arriving in Paris and ironically I never realized how much Spanish I knew until I came here. When trying to say something at times I'll blurt it out in Spanish simply because it is the only other language I speak a bit of besides English. Even though the classes have been a bit difficult since all of the information is so new, it has helped to jump start my language acquisition here. Never before have I taken information from one of my school classes and literally applied it a few minutes later. My accent and pronunciation is steadily improving which I think is a really crucial part of a language because if even you know very little, a good accent will help you to blend in more easily with native speakers. I have been practicing wherever I go, which may make me look a little crazy, silently repeating words to myself, but at least I fit in with the rest of the non sensical characters on the Metro.

I visited the Opera House this week which was absolutely stunning. I am in complete disbelief as to how the ceilings, statues, and fixtures were carved, painted, and shaped. The grandeur and intricacy of the rooms in mind boggling. I have never seen more decadent architecture and I likened it to an elaborate dessert, beautiful to consume, but so rich its hard to eat more than a few bites. We saw Napoleon's private entrance to the Opera house which leads directly into one of the boxes, providing an easy escape if he was ever in danger. It was a real treat to visit and all of the grandiose elements were even more beautiful to see as they were juxtaposed against a gray rainy sky.

This past Tuesday was a politically charged day in Paris, particularly right near the Bastille. In class we heard chants, marching, and music as large masses of people filled the streets protesting. The metro was on strike for the day and to be quite honest there has been so much protesting lately I've found it a bit hard to keep track of what goes on which days. What I've gathered thus far is that the general retirement age with a pension is being raised from 60 years old to 62 in an effort to relieve financial stress in Europe. There is also controversy with Sarkozy at this point as he is rounding up gypsy camps and is essentially deporting certain ethnic groups. I haven't researched this issue very well and have yet to form my own opinion of all these matters. I have just spent my time absorbing information for the local French people and am not at liberty yet to make an assessment as to what I believe is right or wrong.

I spent some time on the Champs-Elysees this weekend near where my friend is living for her homestay. It was so beautiful but very touristy. I want to go back when it is a little calmer and feels a little less like Time Square. I've heard that on the main avenue the trees are lit up with lights around Christmastime which I am so excited for!

The nightlife here is unlike anything I have ever seen. I have always considered myself a night person, I go to bed pretty late and don't particularly like anything in the early morning. However, I feel like a complete amateur here. Clubs, bars, and restaurants stay open the entire night. I am so used to Monterey and Carmel being closed down at 9pm when I'm in town. When I am at school, late night activities are fairly limited to house parties, so being in a city like this is unlike anything I've encountered. It truly seems like the city never sleeps however, because on Sunday mornings and afternoons, open air markets line the streets of Paris. I have been going on Sunday afternoons to get fresh produce. It's a good way for me to practice my French as well, and for my body, is a welcome break from baguettes and crepes.

I hope that people were able to enjoy Labor Day this year and were also able to take time to reflect on the 9/11 anniversary. Love to you all! I hope this blog finds you happy and healthy. Bises!

2 Weeks in Paris!

Garden in Montmarte

Inside the Mosque

Garden near Gare de Lyon

Political protests near the Bastille

IMAX theater in the Villette

Street Art in the Villette

View from Montmarte

Sacre Cour

Oldest Cabaret in Paris

Dalida's former home

Pretty window display in Montmarte

Cafe where "Amelie worked"

Wow, I cannot believe it's only been less than 2 weeks since I arrived in Paris! I feel like I have done and seen so much in the relatively short time that I have been here. But first, a few things from last week. I had been bragging to everyone about L'as du Falafel being Jimi Hendrix's favorite place in the world for falafels. However, I misinformed and it is actually Lenny Kravitz's favorite place. This makes more sense as well, because the area in the Marais where it is has a large Jewish and Gay community within its neighborhoods and Lenny Kravitz as a Jewish man I'm sure has ventured into this part of Paris. Also from last week, a little entertaining tidbit I forgot to include was that on the day I walked myself around Paris for hours getting lost, I had a "gypsy encounter". On the first day of orientation we were warned about "gypsy encounters" where either a child or a typically a woman would try and con you, either by trying to get you to buy a trinket you had believed you lost or by literally stealing something from you. Wouldn't you know that one of my first days there I was approached by a woman with gold plated teeth that spoke to me in very frantic french waving a gold ring around my face. I was caught a bit off guard, but just smiled and repeatedly said, "No Merci" and walked away until she finally left me alone. I felt like a Parisian at this point!

This week was jam packed with my extensive french classes and our daily excursions. We began the week going to Belleville to visit graffiti walls and the Pere-Lachaise, a famous cemetery where Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Chopin, and Edith Piaf are buried, just to name a few. We also saw the doorstep where Edith Piaf was born into complete destitute. Even though this wasn't one of the more glamorous areas of Paris, it was wonderful to go off the beaten path and explore less touristy areas. The area around the cemetery has many freshly walls lined with graffiti. However, this seemed to be less garish then traditional graffiti with territorial gang symbols and instead was truly street art. It felt as though it was Belleville's equivalent to a museum.

The next day I finally went to the see the Eiffel Tower. I had seen it from afar several times but like a true tourist I wanted to experience it up close and personal. Although I was bombarded by people trying to sell me trinkets and souvenirs and had to wade through millions of summer vacationers taking pictures, I truly was able to appreciate the majestic qualities of a monument so grand and so renowned. Having my picture taken in front of it was truly a "bucket list" moment for me and I was thrilled to be able to go. (A few nights later before a night out, I finally got to see it sparkle. It was absolutely fantastic! I don't think I'd ever be able to get sick of it!)

The next day I went to Montmarte, an area of the 18th Arrondisment of Paris which is home to the Moulin Rouge, several locations where the film "Amelie" was filmed, cobbled streets winding up steep hills reminiscent of San Francisco, and of course the beautiful church, Sacre Cour. Even though the Moulin Rouge was a little kitschy and flanked by seedy strip clubs and erotic museums, it was really enjoyable to go and visit it. I walked right out of the metro and saw the famous windmill and hopped onto a stone median in the road to take a picture. Montmarte is truly extraordinary. It doesn't feel like anything that beautiful or charming can really be real. The cobble stone streets wind up vastly steep hills and crosses through streets covered in piano bars, cafes, and former artists' studios from the Bohemian influence in Paris at the turn of the 20th Century. It is home to Paris' first cabaret and to the home of a famous French singer named Dalida I already feel as though it will be a place that I will frequent often.

I also visited the most prominent Mosque in France, which is the center of Islamic culture in the city. We were given a tour throughout most of the building by a woman who worked in the center. It is a requirement that your shoulders and knees are covered when entering the Mosque and it is intended to be a place of solitude and worship. Many people come to pray up to five times a day and shoes need to be removed when entering certain rooms of prayer. There were beautiful gardens and banquet rooms for dinners of prominent leaders Muslim leaders to meet together. It was interesting to learn a bit about a religion that is so foreign to me, but is so prevalent in the rest of the world.

I also explored the Villette area of Paris this week which is home to a remarkable IMAX theater, museums, and modern art. It also boasts some of the most beautiful "street art" I have ever seen. The use of color and texture these people use is seriously impressive, particularly for the image they are able to produce on an ordinary wall.

I also recently discovered the Tuileries. Wow! This is really the only word I can describe these spectacular gardens right next to the Lourve. We've been experiencing some beautiful, warm weather this past week and lounging in the immaculate gardens is like a dream. People are all doing an array of activities whether is teenagers playing football, older couples lounging in the chairs, toddlers running around playing tag, or people simply reading or sketching in a notebook.

Currently Paris is experiencing a bit of social and political unrest. I have only heard rumblings and need to properly update myself more accurately on the happenings here. On Saturday, at the Bastille, near where I live, there were marches and protests against the French president, Sarkozy who is, from what I understand, trying to keep Paris "pure" with immigration policies. This is only however my rudimentary knowledge of the topic and is basically word of mouth. My goal this week is to do some research on the subject so I have a proper understanding of the matter. I must admit that regardless of what the protest meant to convey, it was riveting to see hundreds upon hundreds of people "storming the bastille". This is apparently a place where the majority of protests take place in Paris due to its political history. Also on Tuesday, there is a planned Metro strike limiting many of my classmates from being able to get to and from school. Tuesday is apparently supposed to be a large protest day around the Bastille as well, so it should be interesting being in the thick of it.

In other Paris news, I am beginning to be mistaken for being a French person which is truly exciting. People will speak to me very quickly in French and I get a complete "deer in the headlights" look on my face and then respond bashfully with with, Je pas parle Francais, which means I don't speak French. ( I should probably start saying "I don't speak French well, yet. ) The other day a woman actually thought I was from Spain and began speaking to me in Spanish instead. I am happy at least this means I'm beginning to blend in a bit more and look a little less lost and touristy. I can order fairly effortlessly at a restaurant and can have very simple conversations. I've also learned that Parisians like exact change, in all of their transactions. If you only have a large bill, it is customary to apologize (Je suis desole). If an apology comes at the beginning they are usually fine with whatever you give them. I am also becoming very proficient at using the metro station. I purchased a Navigo pass for the month and have been exploring all over the city. It's nice to feel so mobile. Another somewhat scary tidbit of my week, was seeing a man run off with a woman's purse in the metro station. The incident happened across the track from me and my friends leaving our side of the station with very little we could do to help, as the trains rushed by blocking our access in no time. I'll admit I was almost relieved to see that it was just a purse snatching. The screams led be to believe something much worse had happened. I included this on my blog because I found it to be an eye opening experience. As careful as I am with myself and my belongings, there is danger in every city and it is important to be alert and focused. I was a little spooked but was able to remind myself that I need to also act accordingly and make safe decisions, in one of the biggest cities in the world.

On a lighter note, Paris continues to amaze me. Sitting at a cafe for hours with your friends is encouraged. It is truly a nocturnal city with much of its nightlife not beginning until the wee hours of the morning. I have experienced extraordinarily friendly people as well as though that have been a bit less accepting of a traveling American. However, all of this has continued to make this the adventure of my life. I feel so blessed and privileged to get to not just vacation here but live here for months. Hope this blog finds everyone in the US happy, healthy, and successful!

Bises!

PS, I still haven't quite figured out inserting the pictures in their proper place. I will learn soon!